SHE CAN NITYA ARORA FOUNDER, VALLIYAN (INDIA)

BY RISHINI WEERARATNE

Nitya Arora is a trailblazing jewellery designer and the founder of Valliyan, a luxury jewellery brand that has captured the hearts of fashion enthusiasts globally. With a unique blend of avant-garde artistry and timeless elegance, Nitya’s designs are a celebration of individuality, boldness, and creativity. What started as a personal quest to create jewellery that resonated with her own aesthetic quickly transformed into a sought-after brand with a cult following. Known for her statement pieces, Valliyan fuses traditional Indian elements with contemporary sensibilities, offering customers jewellery that is both fashion-forward and deeply rooted in culture. Valliyan, under Nitya’s direction, has redefined the world of high-fashion accessories, earning recognition in both the Indian and international markets. The brand has adorned some of the biggest names in Bollywood and global icons, while also establishing itself as a trailblazer in the realm of sustainable and ethical fashion. Nitya’s unwavering commitment to her craft, her keen eye for design, and her innovative spirit have made Valliyan a symbol of luxury, artistry, and resilience. In this interview, Nitya shares the journey behind Valliyan, her design philosophy, and her aspirations for the future of the brand.

What inspired you to start Valliyan, and what was the vision behind it?

At twenty years old, I wanted to wear bold, avant-garde, high-fashion jewellery, but I couldn’t find anything like it. Back in 2008, the market in India, offered only two extremes; cheap street jewellery or traditional gold and silver pieces. Recognizing this gap, I decided to create my own collection. I designed the logo and branding and took it to my favourite luxury fashion concept store at the time, Bombay Electric. They started retailing it the very next day. A few weeks later, I got a call saying the pieces were selling out and they needed more, and that’s how it all began.

Can you walk us through your journey from the initial concept to establishing Valliyan as a recognized brand?

I always envisioned building a ‘Designed in India’ label. While ‘Made in India’ was already a well-established concept, ‘Designed in India’ was still in its infancy on the global stage. That journey began 18 years ago when there was no precedent for the kind of jewellery I was creating. In the early days, I had to educate one woman at a time at pop-ups and exhibitions; people simply didn’t know how to wear or style statement jewellery. I felt like an outsider, standing there in bold, avant-garde pieces, trying to convince customers that high-fashion jewellery could be both cool and affordable.

There was no social media then, no influencer culture, and international fashion magazines like Vogue and Grazia had only just entered India. Celebrity styling wasn’t a big thing yet, so influencing the market required time, patience, and a lot of groundwork. Valliyan became a pioneer in high-fashion jewellery and accessories just as a fashion revolution was beginning in India. Fortunately, the designs were so unique and editorial that they were consistently featured in top fashion magazines. I started winning awards, receiving media recognition, and working on projects like my first Bollywood film, Aisha, with Sonam and Rhea Kapoor, styled by Pernia Qureshi, it was one of the most fashion-forward movies of its time. Since then, I’ve had the privilege of working with nearly every major Bollywood actress; from Sridevi and Aishwarya Rai to Deepika Padukone and Priyanka Chopra. My designs have also been worn by global icons like Paris Hilton, Nicki Minaj, Katy Perry, and Kim Kardashian. Looking back, it’s been an incredible journey; from an era where brand credits were barely visible in a magazine corner to today, where a single viral reel or targeted ad can catapult a brand to global recognition.

What were some of the biggest challenges you faced when starting out, and how did you overcome them?

One of my biggest challenges was running a business single-handedly as a young woman in India. At twenty, I found that people were reluctant to take instructions from someone my age, especially a woman. Without a mentor or family support, I had to build everything from scratch. I had been saving money from internships and jobs since I was 15, and that became the capital for my first collection. For years, I was a one-woman army, handling everything from finance and HR to marketing, design, and production, all in a single day. As a fashion entrepreneur, you have to constantly switch between roles, and every day presents a new challenge. It wasn’t until much later that I could afford to hire help. Beyond the day-to-day struggles, there were larger economic challenges; demonetization, GST reforms, and, of course, the COVID-19 pandemic, which forced many businesses to shut down. Despite these setbacks, we managed to stay afloat. What kept me going was a mix of resilience, optimism, and sheer hard work. Having lived in both Bombay and New York, I learned the art of hustle and perseverance. But most importantly, I’ve had the unwavering love and support of my parents, which has been my greatest source of strength.

Valliyan is known for its bold and artistic designs; what influences and inspirations shape your creative direction?

If I had to define my style, I’d call it esoteric, retro-futuristic, and timeless. My inspirations are deeply personal and diverse rooted in nature, architecture, my childhood, and the rich tapestry of Indian culture and history. The women in my life, especially my grandmothers and mother, have also played a significant role in shaping my aesthetic.

Beyond that, my influences span across unexpected places; the nuns who taught me in school, the rebellious energy of Madonna, the vibrant spirit of Punjab, the chaos and charm of Bombay, the dynamism of New York, and the elegance of Italy. More than anything, I often feel like a medium, as if this art form flows through me from a higher source. My creations are a fusion of all these elements, brought to life through instinct, emotion, and a deep connection to the world around me.

How do you think Valliyan has evolved over the years, and what are your future plans for the brand?

I feel like people have finally evolved to embrace and appreciate Valliyan’s aesthetic. From the beginning, Valliyan was ahead of its time, and now the world is catching up. I don’t believe in rigid planning; I prefer to go with the flow. But if there’s one vision, it’s world domination, to see Valliyan retailing alongside the best luxury houses globally and, hopefully, to have Rihanna wearing my designs in the near future.

What drew you to jewellery design as a career path, and did you always envision yourself in this field?

I actually wanted to be an architect. Jewellery design wasn’t something I actively pursued; it feels more like it chose me. What started as a personal experiment, just because I was bored, ended up taking on a life of its own. So, in a way, it was an experiment gone right.

Can you share any pivotal moments in your career that defined your growth as a designer and entrepreneur?

There have been many defining moments along the way. A few that stand out:

• My first high-fashion store representation at Bombay Electric
• My jewellery being featured in Vogue India for the first time in 2008, worn by Lakshmi Menon
• My first magazine article in 2009
• Showcasing at Lakme India Fashion Week for the first time in Summer 2009
• Vogue India’s first editor, Anaita Shroff, wearing Valliyan to the finale show.
• Being accepted at Parsons New York
• Designing jewellery for my first Bollywood film, Aisha (2010)
• Winning my first award, Best Jewellery Designer, presented by Grazia in 2012
• Opening my first store in Goa in 2012
• Launching my next store with Masaba in Kala Ghoda in 2014
• Bollywood’s biggest stars, Sonam Kapoor, Deepika Padukone, Priyanka Chopra, Kareena Kapoor, and Katrina Kaif, wearing Valliyan regularly.
• Seeing my designs on Katy Perry, Nicki Minaj, and Kim Kardashian
• Collaborations with legendary designers like Manish Malhotra, JJ Valaya, and Anamika Khanna
• Expanding into fashion consulting, modelling, and influencing

Each of these milestones has shaped Valliyan’s journey and my evolution as both a designer and an entrepreneur.

How has your educational background or early influences contributed to your design philosophy?

My design philosophy is a reflection of the diverse influences I was surrounded by growing up. The nuns at my school always wore cross medallions over their ivory saris and dresses, which is why cross motifs often appear in my jewellery. Since we visited churches frequently, Byzantine architecture and aesthetics naturally became a part of my visual language. Madonna was on repeat in my life, and her bold, rebellious style shaped my approach to fashion. At the same time, rap, and hip-hop culture, especially during my time studying fashion in New York, added an edge to my design sensibility. People-watching on the streets of NYC also played a huge role in understanding personal style and self-expression. Growing up in Bombay, I was immersed in tropical landscapes, which continue to inspire me. Architecture has been another major influence; I was raised in a neighbourhood filled with iconic Art Deco and Gothic buildings, and I even live in an old Art Deco building now. Then there’s my childhood, watching my mother and grandmothers dress up in elaborate Punjabi jewellery; big gold, bold pieces that exuded confidence and tradition. My love for art, especially Italian Renaissance masters, also finds its way into my aesthetic, blending with the electric, neon energy of Bombay. All of these elements; heritage, music, architecture, and global influences, come together to shape the Valliyan signature style: a fusion of history, culture, and fearless self-expression.

What advice would you give to young designers aspiring to enter the world of jewellery design and entrepreneurship?

Stay true to your unique style and aesthetic; authenticity is everything. Work hard, stay consistent, and focus on creating a great product, because at the end of the day, quality and originality will always speak for themselves.

Have there been any mentors or figures in the fashion industry who have influenced your journey?

The fashion industry can be a highly insecure and competitive space, where you succeed purely on your own merit and hard work. For me, the journey was particularly challenging because I was one of the first to do what I did, there wasn’t really anyone to look up to or seek guidance from. I had to carve my own path. A small but significant example of this was how accessory designers were never allowed to showcase on the runway at Wills India Fashion Week. I fought hard for that change, writing multiple emails, and persistently pushing for recognition. In 2016, for the first time in the history of the Fashion Design Council of India, a fashion jewellery brand, Valliyan, was finally given a spot on the runway. Jewellery and accessories were often overlooked in the fashion calendar and on retail shelves. If I had chosen apparel design, perhaps my journey would have been different. But with avant-garde jewellery, every lesson I’ve learned has come the hard way, through persistence, resilience, and a refusal to accept limitations.

 Valliyan is known for its statement pieces; what design elements or materials do you love working with the most?

As a mixed-media jewellery artist, I love experimenting with multiple textures, colours, and shapes. Copper is by far my favourite metal, it has such a warm, rich feel to it. I’m also obsessed with Swarovski crystals and semi-precious stones, which add that perfect touch of sparkle and elegance. Over the years, I’ve enjoyed experimenting with unconventional materials like bamboo and acrylic, pushing the boundaries of traditional jewellery design. Each piece is an opportunity to explore new possibilities and create something truly unique.

How do you strike a balance between traditional Indian elements and contemporary aesthetics in your designs?

Good design is all about harmony and balance, and it’s not something that comes easily, it takes years to master, especially when you’re merging two distinct time periods, styles, and cultural influences. That’s exactly what I do at Valliyan. For example, we’ve done collections like Temple Rococo and modern Polki, which blend traditional Indian elements with contemporary aesthetics. The balance isn’t something I can easily describe, it’s instinctual, like the way an Indian and Italian couple might have a child with a perfect blend of both heritages. I was raised in an environment that was a mix of Eastern and Western influences, so everything I create is a reflection of that fusion. My designs are born from this amalgamation of cultural and design aesthetics, and it’s all about bringing those influences together in a harmonious way.

Sustainability and ethical sourcing are major concerns in fashion today; how does Valliyan approach these issues?

Sustainability has always been a core value for me, even before it became a widespread concern in the industry. From day one, everything we source, and produce is done locally. Our artisans, based between Zaveri Bazaar and Jaipur, have been working with us for over 17 years. They come from long-established Bengali Babu and Patwa communities, many of whom are 3rd and 4th generation craftsmen. At Valliyan, we operate with ZERO waste. Any leftover materials from previous collections are repurposed to create one-of-a-kind pieces. Our collections aren’t seasonal, they’re perennial, designed to be timeless and never bound by fleeting trends. Even when a piece doesn’t turn out as planned, we take it apart and redesign it, ensuring every creation serves a purpose. The pieces are handcrafted using simple tools and age-old techniques, which means each one is unique and made to last. We also offer a lifetime after-sales service, if you return to us after 10 years with a piece that needs repairing, we will refresh and restore it to as good as new. To me, true luxury lies in creating pieces that stand the test of time.

What are some of your personal favourite pieces from Valliyan, and why are they special to you?

Valliyan creates jewellery with soul, and every piece is designed by me, so they all feel like my babies. I only design pieces that I genuinely love and would want to wear myself, so, in a way, I’m selfish with my designs. They’re all special to me, but like anyone with a favourite child, there are always a couple of pieces from each collection that I wear on repeat. These are usually the one-of-a-kind pieces, and that’s what makes them especially meaningful to me. Once they’re made, I can never recreate them, which makes them all the more precious. The uniqueness of each piece and the memories tied to them is what truly sets them apart.

How do you ensure that each collection remains unique while staying true to the Valliyan identity?

I design everything myself, which is why I’ve never had a design team. Each collection is a natural, organic extension of my vision, it’s authentically mine, not borrowed or influenced by others. That authenticity is what keeps each collection unique while staying true to the Valliyan identity. It’s hard to train someone else to think like I do because it comes from my personal experiences, influences, and instinctive design process. It’s all about staying true to the essence of what I believe in.

What sparked your collaboration with The Design Collective in Sri Lanka, and how did it come about?

I always say that Valliyan has a personality of its own, and when I saw Shahili Gomes McCoy on Instagram, her style, energy, and the way she carries herself immediately stood out to me. I thought, “That’s a Valliyan girl.” Only someone with such a unique personality and style could truly understand the Valliyan vision. The brand has cultivated a cult following, and Shahili fit right in. For me, it’s always about the people, and when I connected with her, it just felt right. It was a huge bonus that the store and its curation were beautiful, and the collaboration turned out to be a perfect fit for both Valliyan and The Design Collective. I feel lucky to have been a part of it!

How does collaborating with a popular Sri Lankan concept store like The Design Collective align with Valliyan’s global vision?

I’ve always been drawn to Sri Lanka for its natural beauty and temples. As an architecture enthusiast, I’ve long admired Geoffrey Bawa, and I’ve stayed in properties he’s designed, his spaces are so meditative, full of harmony, and a masterclass in balance. So, being able to bring my designs to Sri Lanka feels like an absolute honour. The Design Collective is a perfect representation of Sri Lankan beauty, aesthetic, and style, it’s a beautifully curated space. This collaboration aligns perfectly with Valliyan’s global vision of connecting with unique, like-minded spaces around the world. I’m excited about this partnership and hope it will be long-term, helping us build a loyal Valliyan tribe in Sri Lanka.

What can customers in Sri Lanka expect from this collaboration (pop-up) in terms of product and experience?

It’s going to feel like kids in a candy shop! Customers can expect to be completely stimulated by the designs because they’re unlike anything they’ve ever experienced. Valliyan jewellery isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s jewellery with a soul. When you wear it, you can feel the uplifting of your spirit and the positive energy that comes with each piece. The experience will be one that touches not only your style but your heart as well.

What excites you the most about introducing Valliyan to the Sri Lankan market?

I’m most excited about getting to return to all the beauty that Sri Lanka has to offer; the food, the beaches, and the vibrant culture. I can’t wait! It’s always been a special place for me and being able to bring Valliyan to such a beautiful market makes it all the more exciting.

Where do you see yourself ten years from now?

I see myself as the Global Creative Director of Swarovski or Bvlgari, leading innovative designs and shaping the future of luxury jewellery. It’s a goal I’m working toward, combining my passion for design with a global platform to create timeless, iconic pieces.