A Christian Community in Chilaw

We are on the road from Colombo to Puttalam. At eighty kilometres we reach Chilaw. After a quick discussion, we realise none of us know anything about this city by the sea. Many of us have passed through Chilaw hundreds of times heading to Kalpitiya. At the Chilaw clock tower , a symbol of the rich history of the town, we decide to stop for a visit and a short tour.

Chilaw beachfront drive is our next target. We cross over a lagoon bridge and arrive at a massive car park and seafront promenade called the Beach Park. It is all a bit tired and, as in many places in Sri Lanka, a bit filthy. Onwards we go, driving under a large sign welcoming us to a Christian fishing village. The Wadia road is narrow and many elderly people are seated outside their little shack homes. The children wave and we wave back. They all look so happy, but have very little. Their wooden homes are so small.

We drive further, and the road becomes narrower. Behold, in this very poor village they are building a massive church. This is a large stone and brick construction. Much remains to be done, yet it is very impressive. I am sure most of it is being built by the fishermen. We drive about a kilometer along this road through the shanty houses by the sea. It is so clean. The road gets quite tight , people still smile and wave and move their chairs so we can go on . The children kick a ball around the narrow alleyways.

At the end of the road there is a massive cemetery, with many simple crosses as well as ornate slabs and photographs of the deceased. Beyond that, the narrow road stops, giving way to four‑wheel‑drive terrain including sand dunes. After  a short while we halt as further travel gets a bit risky , but we drop down to get closer to the lagoon. There is a sort of T‑junction of water over two hundred meters wide. The views are spectacular. The control of rainwater in Sri Lanka from ancient times is quite amazing. Fresh water, or in some cases brackish water lagoons and man‑made and natural lakes, are a feature of this island. 

We drive back and see all the dried fish laid out on sheets. There is ample fishing opportunity here with a vast lagoon and the sea, with long sand pits. You would pay a fortune for a view like this. We return to the bridge and all agree it’s been a real eye opener visiting this community . Happy people with faith, living modestly with religion and simplicity.

The Christians are the largest religious group in the town, with a history going back to the Portuguese. St Mary’s Church, with its amazing stained‑glass windows,also a cathedral built in 1851 . There are, however, also Buddhist temples and the famous Munneswaram Hindu temple to visit.  Evidence of life from the early Arab traders and pearl farming also remains. The name Chilaw means “border”, between Sinhalese and Tamil kingdoms.

We drive back and see all the dried fish laid out on sheets. There is ample fishing opportunity here with a vast lagoon and the sea, with long sand pits. You would pay a fortune for a view like this...

We will not have time to explore the thriving wetlands, lush mangroves and birdlife, some migratory. There is a rich cultural heritage in the area, it is known for its festivals, fire‑walking, and local customs and traditions. Having read that the old fort is just a series of ditches we conclude not to visit .

In search of a quality stop for a deserved big lunch we spot Anantaya Resort. As we arrive, we see rows of buses parked outside. A crowd, but not our crowd. On the road again and home, we all agree we have just had a “ taster “ of the city of  Chilaw ,and will return.